THE BAHAMAS ADVENTURE

Page 7

12/14/00  (Thursday)

Woke up before dawn to a light rain.  I needed to get up and close the hatch.  I was still feeling wet.  It is amazing how once something gets wet, it never seems to dry.  My pants that got wet on Saturday were still very damp and they have been hanging out to dry below decks the whole time!

Heading out again at 8:00 AM.  This time we swing North to Triangle Rocks as a waypoint in route to Walker's Cay.  The trip was relatively short ( about 4 hours ) allowing us time to explore the Cay after we arrived.  Walker's Cay is somewhat famous as a fishing and scuba center.  The fishing is for bone fish ( there is even a TV show called The Walker's Cay Chronicles ) but apparently it was early in the season.  There was almost no one there.  Walker's Cay is also a place you can feed the sharks while in your scuba gear.  No Thanks.

As for the Cay itself, there is almost nothing there.  There is a marina and also a bar/restaurant that closes at 3:00 PM.  There's also a liquor store that closes at 12:30 PM and a general store that opens at 1:00 PM (maybe the same person runs both).  Then there is a hotel that had a grand total of one couple checked-in. We buy diesel at $3.00/gal and ice at $4.00/small block.  This is a land where you can pay more for water than fuel.  

The only couple at the hotel was Billie and Andy, both from England.  This couple is in there mid thirties and have a 5 year plan to sail the world.  They were heading for the Caribbean then on to Venezuela, the Panama Cannel and the west coast of the US.

We explored the cay and enjoyed some wonderful views.  Also found an old air strip that is still in use and a foundation for a new church.  But there is little else on the cay.  Outside of Billie, Andy and us there are about 30 people who are working here.  I'm at a loss to explain why so many people are needed to do so little.  The folks who work here live on a near by cay called Grand Cay.  So Ron and I decide to head over there to see how the people live.

We find the narrow opening to a small anchorage in front of a small settlement of about 200 people who live on the cay.  All around us there are small motorboats zooming in and out of the little harbor.  In each boat there is one guy at the motor and another who always stands at the front of the boat holding onto a line that is attached to the bow.  Between these motorboat cowboys are other small boats with men and boys hard at work fishing.  The people are friendly and wave as they pass.  Since these guys are tearing in and out from the town at all hours, we decide to light our kerosene lamp and leave it on deck near water level so as to be seen at night.

The town itself is made up of little houses and travel is by electric golf carts ( there is no gas station ).  The big eating/drinking spot is Rosie's where "the best ever"  cracked conch is reputed to be found.  Life here is simple and it's residents are getting by with few if any 'luxuries'.

Ron turns in around 9PM but I stay up for another hour or so to watch what now is becoming my private star show.  My stares skyward are broken only by glances toward the motorboat cowboys zipping by just feet from our boat. 

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© 2001, Donald R. Swartz